Leura is a picturesque village nestled within the Blue Mountains of NSW, about 100km west of Sydney, situated on a ridge that forms the northern rim of the vast Jamison Valley. The town's name comes from an Aboriginal term, believed to be associated with the location or a local natural feature. Leura's transformation occurred primarily during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, thanks to easy access afforded by the railway. It became a popular holiday retreat, marked by the construction of grand, deep-verandahed guesthouses and extensive, cool-climate gardens designed to capture the attention of wealthy Sydney residents seeking respite from the city heat.
While Katoomba is historically the commercial and admin center of the Mountains, Leura retains a distinct village atmosphere, renowned for its boutique shopping, antique dealers, cafe culture and dining options. The two towns are joined like Siamese twins. Today, Leura remains hugely popular with visitors, possibly too much so! The road is much beeter tahn it used to be, so it is easily accessible by car, also by frequent train services, and by the tourist coaches that stop at its famous lookouts. Its main street, with its cherry blossoms in spring and blazing liquid-ambars in autumn, draws large crowds year-round.
The area is perhaps best known for its stunning views over the vast Jamison Valley, part of the Blue Mountains National Park. Vantage points offer breathtaking vistas of the sandstone cliffs and eucalyptus forests that stretch to the horizon, a dramatic contrast to the manicured gardens of the town itself. These are complemented by numerous bush tracks, including the scenic clifftop walk.
Despite its beauty, Leura feels as though it is a town 'past its prime'. The glory days are long gone. The mountains retain their magnificence, but there are a few too many shops that look as though they are permanently closed. There is too much traffic and insufficient parking. The the local council has parking meters everywhere, which is very discouraging. With a few exceptions, accommodation options are run down but expensive, leading to too many day-trippers and not enough over-nighters. Bushfires and COVID did the town no good. Being on a cliff edge leaves no room for expansion and growth. But still, those views!
Prince Henry Cliff Walk
The Prince Henry Walk is a 7km Grade 3 trail which follows the cliff edge overlooking the Jamison Valley from Katoomba to Leura. The Leura section passes the Leura Cascades (Leura Falls Creek) and goes to Gordon Falls (Gordon Creek) and we trekked this modest portion on a fine, sunny day. Both creeks join in the valley and eventually meet the Kedumba River, a tributary of Coxs River which winds up in Warragamba Dam. It had been dry, and neither falls were carrying much water, giving them the classic `bridal veil` appearnace. The walk itself was pleasant, passing stunning lookouts towards the long, skinny 950m high plateau of Mount Solitary and dipping down into `unique hanging swamps`, passing a variety of `sedges, rushes and grasses` as described by the NSW NPWS. You pass under impressiuve rock overhangs, with lots of steps up and down.
Mount Solitary dominates the view of the Jamison Valley from the Blue Mountains towns. The Mountain was known as Karowal, `the strong one`, to the indigenous inhabitants, and adventurous bushwalkers can climb it.
Prince Henry was Duke of Gloucester (1900-1974) and was the now King Charles III's great uncle. He visited Katoomba in 1934 (well, the railway station at least) which was when the walk was under construction. The walk photos are shown in the sequence of the trail from Leura Cascades to Gordon Falls.
The Everglades
The Everglades Historic House and Gardens in Leura NSW, is an iconic example of Art Deco architecture and inter-war landscape design, set against the dramatic backdrop of the Blue Mountains. The property was developed in the 1930s by Belgian-born businessman and textile merchant, Henri van de Velde. Wealthy from founding the Feltex textile company, he purchased the 5ha property, then a burnt-out orchard, in 1932 to create a magnificent weekend retreat in the cooler Blue Mountains climate. The name `Everglades` came from a previous owner, Georgina Stonier, in 1915. The house and gardens, which took four years to complete, were estimated to have cost a total of £100,000 at the time. The gardener and landscape architect was Danish Paul Soresen. The gardens, the `jewel in the crown` amongst Sorensen`s works, features a mix of Australian natives and rare exotics, and are extensively terraced with dry-stone walls, all structured to offer sweeping views of the Jamison Valley. The mostly stuccoed house also showcases Sorensen`s talent, and includes wrought iron panelling, a sweeping internal staircase, and stunning bathrooms. In 1998, the National Trust gained control of the property, to preserve it, thank goodness.